
The utter beauty of this stark area; the ingenuity of the ancient populations; great stuff here about the rock art in various forms. Inaccessible granaries indicating protection of precious grains in starvation-times. An interesting "meridian" theory about moving some of the population centers.
We have visited the general area quite a few times but haven't explored it nearly as much as we'd like. A strange kind of beauty, captivating.
First chapter involves exploring Cedar Mesa - author spent lots of profitable time with an old-timer (Waldo) who was born and raised in the area - this quote made me think of my dad and his knowledge of the St. Joe area (other than the "vague sorrow" thing): "The more time Greg and I spent in Waldo's company, the more we realized that he was a walking encyclopedia of local lore, or knowledge that had escaped the historians and archaeologists, of understandings that would evaporate with his passing. Waldo knew it: that sense of impending loss, I guessed, was at the core of the vague sorrow he seemed to carry with wherever he went, even as he told funny stories about the blatherings of self-styled "experts"."
They take a rafting trip into Desolation Canyon (named by John Wesley Powell) - author gets bummed because the trip is going too fast - just how it feels when we are hiking in Grand Canyon! He writes: "Twenty-nine of our eighty-five river miles were behind us. I felt the adventure already slipping through my fingers - I wanted to make the journey last forever. I thought of Edward Abbey [rafting through Glen Canyon] . . . "The time passes slowly," Abbey wrote, "but not slowly enough." So true.
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