"To compensate a little for the treachery and weakness of my memory, so extreme that it has happened to me more than once to pick up again, as recent and unknown to me, books which I had read carefully a few years before . . . I have adopted the habit for some time now of adding at the end of each book . . . the time I finished reading it and the judgment I have derived of it as a whole, so that this may represent to me at least the sense and general idea I had conceived of the author in reading it." (Montaigne, Book II, Essay 10 (publ. 1580))

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Mary Colter - Architect of the Southwest (Arnold Berke, 2002)

PJ bought this for me as a gift upon our departure from the Colter-designed La Posada during our recent (and most enjoyable) visit.  I was interested in the book primarily due to Colter's connection to La Posada and to various buildings (including Phantom Ranch) in the Grand Canyon area.  I will have a better appreciation for these upon future visits, which we surely shall make.

The book gave me lots of ideas, including:

1.  Colter grew up in Minnesota.  A chance gift stirred her interest in the Southwest.

2.    She began as a designer, and moved into architecture.  Not widely recognized during her career; the author suggests, plausibly, that this was attributable in part to her being a woman, and being perceived as a designer.

3.  It's fascinating to think that the Fred Harvey Company working in tandem with the Santa Fe Railway - both of which Colter worked for over the course of so many years - pretty much invented the American Southwest as it came to be known to decades worth of tourists, with impressions persisting to this day.  Very few roads, very limited access, very limited knowledge.  These companies marketed very effectively.  They essentially invented the widespread demand for Navajo rugs, Native American jewelry, etc.  I don't know details, but this doesn't strike me as a bad thing.  Even if some of the techniques employed then would be considered politically incorrect today.

4.  Colter didn't work on El Tovar - it was already in place.  She did work on Bright Angel Lodge, Phantom Ranch, Hermit's Rest (which we've not visited), the "watchtower" at the east rim (which we've been around but not in), and plenty of other structures in the Grand Canyon area.  She had a great knack for incorporating local styles, placing buildings into a natural setting, while meeting the marketing goals that drove the entire engine.



5.  One of her first assignments at Grand Canyon was the gift shop ("Hopi House") that sits just opposite El Tovar.  I've been in there a number of times but now need to revisit with a different eye.

6.  The book includes a long description and many great photos of La Posada in Winslow.  PJ and I just loved the place, and the descriptions help explain why.  Colter lived through the decommissioning of the building (and remarked about how sometimes folks "live too long"), but didn't see its renaissance.

7.  Interesting discussion of the rise and fall of passenger railroads.  People preferred cars.  Colter was around for the glory days - various lovely train stations roughly along the Route 66 corridor - and  the quick decline.

I liked this book a lot, and definitely will consult it as we make visits to the various Colter buildings in future years.

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