"To compensate a little for the treachery and weakness of my memory, so extreme that it has happened to me more than once to pick up again, as recent and unknown to me, books which I had read carefully a few years before . . . I have adopted the habit for some time now of adding at the end of each book . . . the time I finished reading it and the judgment I have derived of it as a whole, so that this may represent to me at least the sense and general idea I had conceived of the author in reading it." (Montaigne, Book II, Essay 10 (publ. 1580))

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Into Thin Air - A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster (Jon Krakauer, 1997)

Book club selection (via Zach).

Initially somewhat unenthused about this book.  The little I've thought about them, I mostly regarded Everest hikers as rather selfish thrill-seekers (selfish because of the high potential for adverse consequences to family members, Sherpas etc.)  But it turns out that the book was really quite good (though I don't think it changed my impression of the Everest hiker crowd).

The author was a pretty accomplished hiker and rock climber but had no high-elevation experience to speak of.  He finagled an assignment with Outdoor magazine to accompany an Everest expedition.  This was the 1990s, which we learn was the period when non-extraordinary climbers started being accepted on Everest climbs in far larger numbers than previously - if they could just come up with a significant cash payment and get through a fairly quick acclimatization program.  The author had in mind a story about commercialization, environmental harm, disruption to natives, etc.

But it happened that his climbing date (in May 1996) - and he did successfully make it to the top - was the date of a sudden storm which, coupled with human error, bad luck, etc., resulted in eight deaths.  Not surprisingly, this gave him the material for quite a tale.  And I liked how he presented it.  Generally spare style.

Some things that struck me (and made for some interesting conversation):

1.  If you've invested $65K plus expenses (in 1997 dollars) for likely your one shot at a lifetime dream:  folks can be reluctant to risk completing their ascent to help another hiker.

2.  Even if you're willing to abandon the ascent to help others in need:  how far can you go; how much do you risk your own safety (consequences for your loved ones, among other considerations) to help another hiker?

3.  And these hikers in need typically are complete strangers or, at most, someone you just met.  Each of whom was fully aware of, and accepted, the inherent dangers.  No doubt they signed pages of liability waivers.  Do they have a right to impose on others?

4.  Getting off that topic:  based on this reading, climbers doubtless are thrilled to make the top, but it seems like a pretty joyless enterprise overall.  Astonishing effects of high elevation - can't think straight, etc.

5.  Walking past oxygen canisters and other trash from prior expeditions; also a few frozen corpses.

6.  Quote from Japanese climber who walked past struggling Indian team members:  "We were too tired to help.  Above 8,000 meters is not a place where people can afford morality."

7.  Beck Weathers:  wow.

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