City of Djinns - A Year in Delhi (William Dalrymple, 1993)

(339 pages)

Written in 1993; would be interesting to know how well it's aged.  Author lives in Delhi for a year and builds his book around it; goes through weather cycle; describes various eras in the city's history, generally working backward.

Describes Partition as source of huge change - population doubled in ~10 years as Sikhs, Punjabis move into Delhi.  Partition stories.  His landlady was Sikh.  Larger Islamic presence pre-Partition.

Urdu/Mughal tradition . . . post-Partition remainers consider their difference from Punjabis and others stronger than Hindu/Muslim split (really?)  After Partition, Urdu tradition is concentrated in old Delhi; fading.  Punjabis considered provincials; better at commerce.  This part of the book perhaps outdated.

Discussion then goes back to early days of Brits.  They started in various areas in India but early Calcutta presence most relevant for Delhi.  Sent folks up the Ganges in mid/late 18th century; difficult journey completed overland.  Delhi already in decline - Persian invasion/massacre of 1739 perhaps the exclamation point - but Mughal authority still present (and ultimately usable by Brits).  City had faded to something of a backwater after recent glory.  Fraser/Scots as initial Brit presence - rough times, working to subjugate the countryside.  They tend to "go native" but as 19th century progresses - more conservative Brit style takes over.  Culminates in 1857 rebellion; things are going exactly backward:  viewing natives as "the other."  (Mixed race folk not accepted by either side.)  Destruction in Delhi as punishment for 1857; followed by building process for New Delhi as center of Brit authority in this part of the country.

He wastes some time on Sufi and eunuch concepts - didn't seem worth it, but he was able to find remnants to interview so used the material.

Then more on Mughals.  Aurangzeb details . . . 6th and last great Mughal emperor, died 1707.  Poisonings, intrigue.  Islamic fundamentalist for his times, created strains between Hindu and Muslim that flowered (supposedly the two were much more accepting of each other prior to this).

Delhi as Islamic since 12th century; Mughals show up 16th century.  As book winds up, I like how he describes Islamic dominance as a six-century interlude; British as a far briefer incursion; now back to Hindu per millennia prior.

Concludes with discussion how the Mahabharata fits into Delhi's history - that part is interesting.